A couple of days ago I threw down the pizza gauntlet to our resident expert on all things Italian, Mr. Italo (Even his name is authentic). He had made the rather outlandish claim that there was no “real” Neapolitan style pizza in Montreal, although he gave New York rave reviews for the authenticity of its pizza.

We decided to start a pizza quest in Montreal. I am flying “blind” as it were, never having been to Naples, and in fact, never having eaten pizza on my one and only trip to Italy in 1994 (I was in the North).

We began our quest at a little place called Pizza St. Viateur for which Mr. Italo had received recommendations. It was just O.K. The lack of a wood-fired oven is likely quite a handicap, and the pizza suffered from the traditional Montreal affliction of too much cheese, despite asking the pizza guy to go easy on it. I chose the anchovy and black olive pizza. We all agreed that the sauce was excellent and tasted homemade. I would rate it a 7/10 in comparison to other similar thin-crust pizzas I’ve had in Montreal.

Mr. Italo, I’m sure wouldn’t be so generous. He was pissed that they had mislabeled what was clearly a Pizza Margherita as Pizza Napolitana, and wasted no time in telling the pizzaiolo as much, despite my urging for restraint; I frankly wanted to keep the number of goobers on my pizza to a minimum.

Nevertheless, it was all quite enjoyable with good ambiance, and the good company of Mr. Italo’s photographer friend Andy.

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